Japanese Hair Straightening and Smoothing

Jul 10, 2009
Amy Andersen

Japanese hair straightening - author

A hair system that originated in Japan, utilizes heat, chemicals, and flat ironing to re-texture curly, frizzy hair bonds. The end result is permanent pin-straight hair.

Japanese hair straightening quickly became popular once hairstyle photos were shown of frizzy or coarse unruly locks miraculously turned smooth. The smooth closed hair shaft reflects light, giving hair an appearance of silk like gloss. This is the end goal, along with stick-straight yet flexible hair, of the procedure. Unlike the Brazilian keratin treatment, this procedure is permanent. Only new hair growth will need to be treated.

Japanese Hair Treatment (TR) Process

Previous hair relaxers utilized a salt or calcium based hydroxide or lye based with a higher pH. The chemical ammonium thioglycolate is used in this treatment. The process takes several hours. Below is only a basic summary.

The hair is washed with a pretreatment clarifying sodium free shampoo.
The hair is rinsed.
A solution is applied to dry hair in small sections throughout the head. The solution is kept off the scalp.
This is rinsed out.
The hair is blown dry smooth. Each section is laboriously flat ironed several times with a high heat flat iron. It is this heat aspect that insures stick straight hair. A cold smoothing treatment will not produce the same effect although it will create a smooth hairstyle.
This can be a lengthy procedure depending on whether it is a short hairstyle or long hair grown out for a wedding.
Another solution may be applied and rinsed and flat ironing repeated. The hair remains untouched for the next 3 days.

Types of Thermal Reconditioning or Ionic Rebonding Hair Straightener

Yuko: This was the original Japanese straightener and primarily for virgin untreated hair. It is a single preparation. It is not recommended for African ethnic hair or any hair previously treated with a lye- or thio-based substance.
Liscio: This was the next developed treatment higher on the chain of chemical ionic bond restructuring. It can be used on chemically treated hair and has several formulations to tweak it toward the proper hair usage. It was developed in 1996 and used more commonly today than Yuko.

Additional treatments go under the names of Alracial, Shiseido, and Paimore. They are brand names for the same process.

Side Effects of Chemically Straightened, Flat-Ironed Smoothed Hair

The praise and complaints are bountiful. Much depends on the expectations of the individual and the patience and skill of the technician.

Miss a few hairs during treatment and they will stand out frizzed from the rest; sleep on the hair in the immediate after period and it will wave. Ends break off at the hair shaft and the tips.
The shiny initial results may fade with time or sun exposure.
The hair may be so straight it may stand out stiff like a brush instead of bending over a shoulder.
It may fall flat against the head.
It will not curl – ever.
Some people state their hair is drier with time.
Some claim their hair is thinner (although this may be an illusion since the hair is flatter and smoother)
Others claim hair is falling out in clumps. (Hair always falls out as part of its natural process. It may be more visible with a "helmet head" rather than a "bush head")
This becomes an expensive ongoing process of treating new hair every 6 months. A day spent in the salon and several days of not washing the hair is a lot of wasted precious time for some people.
Ask if it is appropriate if pregnant.

Inevitably, the Hair is Damaged

The hair structure is changed, chemicals are applied. This is damage to the hair as is any chemical treatment. The extent of “damage” can be minimal and the results fantastic. Knowing what one risks and what one hopes to gain yields the best results.

How to Find a Thermal Reconditioning Stylist

Ask others who have had the process.
Ask for photos of real before and after hair care clients
Have a consultation in 2 different salons. If 2 different opinions are received, don’t simply go with the desired response but try a 3rd salon and follow the consultation majority view. This treatment is not for all types of hair.
Read online comments
Look in larger metropolitan areas for experienced salons.
Ask for referrals.

Read Further for more hair styling techniques and tips.

Amy Andersen - Amy Andersen, MSN, ARNP, family & pediatrics certified, practices yoga and explores the inter-relationships of mind body fitness and ...

16 Comments

Comments

Jul 14, 2010 2:40 PM

Guest :

I have a question...whats all involved in the 6mth up keep????

Jul 30, 2010 8:37 PM

Guest :

v
Your normal hair routine...

Sep 8, 2010 7:16 PM

Guest :

I live in Canada. I'm Asian, but with wavy hair. I took a trip out of the country one summer and because of the humidity there, I decided to get my hair straightened. The 3 hours long process payed out. I love my new, manageable, Shiny, silky hair. It's been one year since and my hair is growing out. However, the ends that got the straightening treatment is still straight and silky when it touch water. Although my hair is dryer now at the ends I still love it and wish I could go over sea to get it done because they do a much, much better job there and cost much less. I got mine done over see for an equivalent of 50 bucks. Here in Canada, the stylist told me $130 and up (my hair is a little longer past my shoulders now).
I highly recommend it, because for me, it virtually had no negative consequences. :)

Oct 13, 2010 8:45 AM

Guest :

My sister had the japanese straightening done, and it killed her hair - it was sooo straight it stuck out. The hair became dry, and looked in terrible condition. She's now using Global keratin , and is much happier with the condition of her hair. Her fringe is always the first thing to go frizzy tho', as she lives in Singapore, and the face gets sweaty, thus stripping the keratin treatment out quicker.

Nov 9, 2010 4:47 PM

Guest :

when you get the japanese hair straightening done, if you go to the beach or have a shower and wet your hair will it go back curly again ? :S

Nov 10, 2010 9:24 PM

Guest :

to the person above me, no it won't go back to curly state until the new portion of hair grows out. Whatever you do, the treated portion of the hair will stay straight. Hence, it will last like 4-6months until you start to notice the new parts of hair more visibly.

My question is, what's better? This? or the Brazilian keratin treatment? I got the Japanese straightening done three times already, but I just heard about the keratin treatment yesterday.

Which is better for someone with really thick, unmanageable hair?

Nov 27, 2010 8:04 AM

Guest :

I just had my hair straightening done and I hate it, my hair looks dead, not shining and frizzy that I just want to cry. This is the third day and I want to go back to the beauty salon that did the process to see what they can do to try to repair and perhaps apply some kind of conditioner treatment and or something to repair it. I have always had beautiful healthy hair and I regret this so much. I want to know what can be done at this point? Regreting this process so much.

Dec 7, 2010 1:31 PM

Guest :

So glad I read your post before purchasing...apparently this stuff is very expensive....
http://www.hairclubib.com I am a Caucasian female with hair pretty much like Oprah's--Where can I read the story about this product that you mentioned?

Jan 22, 2011 5:56 PM

Guest :

I got the Japanese hair straightening system by a stylist who has done the procedure for 15 years, and he has done my friend's hair for 9 years. He messed my hair up. I am so deeply upset. Every single hair is bent at a 90 degree angle 2 millimeters from my scalp.... and they are breaking off at the scalp. I regret doing this treatment SO MUCH. I has luscious beautiful LONG hair before this and just wanted to cut down on styling time and be able to get out of the shower and go to work. My beautiful hair is completely ruined, it is not straight, very frizzy, and breaking off. I can't do anything to it or my hair will break off even more :( no styling, no coloring my grays, no blowdrying, not even pony tails will cause the roots to break off. I'm absolutely devastated. I just wanted to say that EVEN IF THE STYLIST HAS TONS OF EXPERIENCE, THEY CAN STILL MESS UP! Don't take that chance on your hair. Do the brazillian blow out, at least it doesn't damage your hair.

a picture of my hair before :(

http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?fbid=922430160569&set=a.87850087 5209.2497080.16814072

Feb 16, 2011 2:25 PM

Guest :

I've been researching the pros/cons to japanese straightening vs. brazillian keratin. One thing that no one is talking about and I had to learn from my stylist is that with the brazillian keratin you cannot wash your hair for 3-5 days, and when you do you have to do it all over again. So basically it's a once a week thing at $100 a pop. Not a good choice for someone who: a) likes to wash their hair every other day due to a greasy scalp; b) exercises or does anything that will make them sweat; and c) happens to get caught in the rain. None of these are a factor with Japanese straightening. Also, in order to cut down on the dryness of your hair after straightening, make sure you use a deep, hydrating conditioner (like Redken's All Soft) every day for a week+ before treatment rinsing with cold water and leaving a little bit in. You may also want to let your hair airdry and stay away from drying styling products. After treatment, continue using the hydrating conditioner for a week+ and your hair will be fine.

Mar 13, 2011 11:33 AM

Guest :

To the last comment, you don't have to do the Brazilian Keratin treatment once a week! You can't wash it for the first couple of days, then after that you go back to your normal routine! If you want movement to your hair and some natural waves, go for the Keratin. Japanese straightening can make thin hair look thinner, it dries out your hair and looks strange when your curly, frizzy hair grows back in. Not to mention making your hair stick straight, which doesn't suit everyone. And, what about re-doing it? You have to do the hair that's still straight again when you want to retouch the roots. Keratin is way better. Your hair just slowly gets fluffier and then you do it again. My first one lasted 4 months. I used to lose a lot of hair when I washed it, and I had mutant frizz since I live in humid Hong Kong, but with the Keratin I don't lose much and my frizz and monster waves were tamed. I washed it out after about 45 hours the first time.

May 30, 2011 1:37 AM

Guest :

if you wash your hair when its done (after a few days) will it dry poker straight? if you have to use a hairdryer will it dry poker straight?

Jul 14, 2011 11:07 AM

Guest :

does this give you cancer cells like the keratin ?

Sep 7, 2011 12:07 PM

Guest :

Interesting to me, because I am about to have a version of 'Liscio' (called 'Paimore')
I had Yuko 3 times in 2 and a half years - excellent results, shiny, straight, swishy...possibly a little thin but never had thick hair in first place...only frizzed out so looked bushier...
Tried Brazilian Keratin a few weeks ago - bit of a disaster. It's ruined my roots, not at all straight, 'soft' but actually floppy / greasy and quite unmanageable. No shine now, either >: (
It smells really bad, too, like a necrotic odour *yuk* a complete waste of time and money AND my hair looks pants !!
Sooo, I tried to rebook for my beloved Yuko in a couple of weeks time, only to find the salon has switched to 'Liscio'.
Plan to talk to stylist asap, as unsure whether this system has the same benefits...also I didn't get quoted a price yet. (Yuko was £390 UK pounds, for my longish hair).
Anybody out there used the Paimore / Liscio hair straightening?
And if so, how did you find it?
Please help, am suffering from serious hair angst here !! ; )

Sep 30, 2011 4:36 PM

Guest :

*update* see post 07.09.11
Very relieved to report the Paimore treatment was a success : )
Got an introductory offer price, so ended up being less than Yuko, also hardly noticed the smell afterwards - nothing in comparison to keratin and less than Yuko, too.
My hair is happily restored to it's pre-keratin / Japanese straightened-style silkiness.
It now takes me around 5 mins max to fix it in the morning and it stays fixed all day, no matter what level of humidity, etc.
So, feel I can recommend Paimore, the same if not more than Yuko. Think I'll always have Japanese straightening treatments, as my hair has never looked as good.

Dec 9, 2011 9:20 AM

Guest :

I don't recommend this type of straightening treatment, they use harmful chemicals that can serverly damage the hair, that's why I prefer the flat iron which is safer and cause less damage, I use a good one, it's the Karmin G3 Salon Pro that has tourmaline ceramic plates which leaves the hair soft, shiny, healthy and very straight.

16 Comments